Day 19: Don't believe your thoughts at 2PM

Day 19: Cougar Dam to Fall Creek

I laughed to myself as I thought of how convinced I was that we would not make it, that the road would be too hot, too wide, that my legs would fail. How many times do I have to learn this lesson. I think I know the end of the story but I don't. I can never know. So why do I keep making up the end of the story? -- Annie

We had planned our trip pretty solidly up until Sisters. We arranged for WarmShowers hosts and identified campsites up until that point. But we weren't sure how we would feel once we hit Sisters - so we left the last days open. Would we want to stay up in the Cascades and go North to Detroit Lake or head West to the Willamette valley for flatter, albeit hotter weather?

Todd came up with a great route that took us over the McKenzie Pass, through the Aufderhide Drive to Oakridge and on to Fall Creek, Sweet Home and then Scio. The plan was formed once we found out that Roger, the man Todd bought his bike from, was eager to help us out by getting bike boxes ready and then driving us up to the airport. Thanks Roger and May!

Today, our goal was a WarmShowers host in Fall Creek, but because we got lost yesterday it meant we had more mileage to cover, about 80, and a big climb. We identified some campsites that might serve us if we didn't have it in us.

We headed out early on beautiful quiet roads to the ascent over the Aufderhide. My legs felt very tired so the pace was slow. I also felt some apprehension about the day's goal. Since the trip was winding down, we had to get certain mileage in order to get to Scio on time. But.. as is always the case with me, as soon as we got through the approach got on the climb itself I was fine. I like climbing. Everything goes by so slowly you can look closely at plants, insects, birds. You can talk to each other. Up and up we went. And down and down through big trees and morning light.

We took a delightful break at a swimming hole we had both seen through the trees. Bright green-blue water indicated a perfect spot for lunch. It would be the last time we would be deep in the woods in Oregon and we waned to savor it. Soon we would be down in the hot and flat Willamette Valley. Beautiful in its own right, but not the same as these Oregon woods and rivers.

It was COLD! Colder than the waters off the Maine coast. Wow!

Refreshed and well fed we headed to Oakridge where we discovered a stark, open, hot town. A kind young person at McDonalds (wifi stop) told us about a festival going on in town and a bike race. So we followed the one long wide strip of road to the town proper where we discovered a small cordoned off section of road with a band performing and people selling crafts and food. After roaming around a bit, we were approached by an older gentleman. "Are you Annie?" he asked. It was our WarmShowers host for that evening who was in town with his family for the event! What a kind man.

I wanted to tell him that we would see him later, but it was so hot and I was tired, that riding the 37 miles to his house seemed outside my comprehension. I imagined this wide hot road with a head wind blowing just going on and on for all those miles. I told Todd, we should make another plan based on how I felt. So.. we saw where the campsites were on the map and headed out. Well, 5 miles later the road came under the constant shade of big trees, the road tilted slightly down hill and before we knew it we had travelled 20  miles. Having met our host and experienced his kindness we were both motivated to get to his house. So we made it with the help of some blackberry bushes along the way.

I laughed to myself as I thought of how convinced I was that we would not make it, that the road would be too hot, too wide, that my legs would fail. How many times do I have to learn this lesson. I think I know the end of the story but I don't. I can never know. So why do I keep making up the end of the story?

Clarke, Lynn and their grand children welcomed us in like family and fed us royally. We had such a lovely visit and conversation long after dinner. Again, people's kindness on this trip overwhelmed us.

Day 18: Temporarily Bewildered

Day 18: Sisters to Cougar Dam

“How do you calculate upon the unforeseen? It seems to be an art of recognizing the role of the unforeseen, of keeping your balance amid surprises, of collaborating with chance, of recognizing that there are some essential mysteries in the world and thereby a limit to calculation, to plan, to control.”
― Rebecca Solnit, A Field Guide to Getting Lost

This was a BIG day. Much has been written and said about McKenzie Pass and while it is a hefty climb it turned out to be the less challenging part of our day. The pass is part of the TransAmerica cycling route, so for many cyclists who are starting their trip it is the first major challenge. But we were approaching from the East, which is "easier."

My knee was beginning to hurt a bit and got worse as we climbed. Todd is a generous man and luckily we are nearly the same size, so we switched bikes. I felt immediate relief; the pain disappeared.

Body Aches and Pains: It's very common to have a variety of aches and pains when you ride your bike every day. The challenge for me is to figure out which ones need tending and which ones are simply part of riding a lot and will go away.  I get anxious about this. Since Todd has ridden a lot more in his life, he can often put my mind at ease by telling me things like, "Oh yeah. Over this many miles you will probably feel some pain in your neck and shoulders." Most pain comes from a poorly fitted bike, which can be remedied by adjusting saddle or cleat position or stem height or distance. My knee pain was due to a change in my Q factor, the width of my stance from pedal to pedal. For some bizarre reason, Trek decided to increase this distance by 2 cm between the time Todd's Trek was made and mine. You can feel the difference when you get on the bike. It feels like you are mounting a horse.  I adapted my riding style to enlist my butt muscles more and that helped, but now, 700 miles or so into the trip, the pain is pretty constant. 

As you approach the top of the pass, the landscape turns into a moonscape-- a huge lava flow for miles. It is quite stunning with views of the major mountains of the region: Sisters, Washington, Hood.

At the top is a lookout constructed of the lava rocks.

As you can see, the sky is as clear as it is every day. The heat is so dry that sweat evaporates immediately, making it a more comfortable experience.

The descent was outrageous! It took us about an hour and ten minutes to descend. Descents are very pleasurable in the West. The grade is less steep than the East and the curves are banked so that you feel like you are on an amusement park ride as you swoop around the curves. This photo gives you a good idea of what you see as you come into a 15 mph turn.

http://www.whitbazemorephotography.com/

We came out at McKenzie Bridge and fueled up at a small store where we received directions for a short cut to the Aufderhide Drive, the next part of the trip. Well, it turned out the directions were lacking a few turns so we ended up becoming involved in a tiring, but funny detour.

First we went down a road that turned into dirt -- wrong way. Then we got on the right road, but since the directions missed some turns we ended up at the base of a huge dam. They had told us we had to go up and around the dam so we scanned the near vertical walls for a way to get up it. There was a dirt track on the left side that seemed to switchback its way up the wall so we both decided to go for it. What a coup that would be to get up and over this beast with our fully loaded bikes.

We skidded our way up and up and up the dirt track. As we went higher and deeper into the mountainside my mind rested on the rocks in front of me, the sound of my steady breath--in through my nose, out through my mouth, the view of Todd's wheel 5 yards ahead. Getting "lost" is something we both have invited into our experiences, whether on the bike or cross country skis, we enjoy venturing into unknown landscapes. So neither of us wanted to turn around, but eventually it became clear we had to -- the dirt track was not going anywhere near the dam now,  so we reluctantly skidded back down. 

Back down on the road, we saw a hippie van driving towards us. We waved it down and there was a lovely middle-aged hippie woman who was happy to be the one to tell us how to get where we were going even happier to be the one to let us know about the very "shanti" hot spring pools we had to visit along the way. "This is why I am here right now! This is my purpose... to tell you about these springs." We weren't sure about hot springs on a hot day but we were happy to be filled up with her spirit. The Aufderhide is a beautiful road. Even in our fatigue we could appreciate the beauty:

We found a lovely campsite along the South Fork of McKenzie river, bathed in its very cold, very clear waters, ate a huge pile of food and went to sleep. I was completely whooped... the most tired I've been the whole trip. I was out as soon as my head hit the pillow. 

Day 17: Bend to Sisters - Soul Flares

Day 17: Bend to Sisters

Today we have a short ride to Sisters to visit with a Soul Flares reader. Seylah has been reading my writing since I first started writing for Heron Dance. Wow... that's ten years. So, I am feeling very happy and excited to meet and share a meal with her.

The ride to Sisters was short and full of turns and a bit of tension too. Todd and I have navigated the stresses of a long-distance bike tour very well. Each day brings hundreds of decisions, big and small, that affect each other's well being -- how far to ride, where to stop for lunch, when to ask for directions, what to eat, when to eat. Todd tends to be more thoughtful and takes more time to make decisions, so I often jump in and make decisions first. And since we think alike so often, it doesn't seem to matter to him and sometimes he even seems relieved. But upon reflection we concluded that over the course of the trip, the imbalance grew and created some tension. So, most of the trip to Sisters was ridden in silence until we arrived, had some ice cream and talked it out. It doesn't take us long to get to the core of the issue. We are both very good at listening to each other carefully and respectfully when it matters most and often that's all it takes. In the end there is often nothing that needs to be fixed, someone just needs to be heard.

With smiles and wet eyes we headed to Seylah's and was greeted with outrageous hospitality and warmth. She cooked an amazing healthy yummy dinner of kale, rice, egg, cheese and herbs, a huge salad and lovely red wine. We talked for hours, sharing stories about our life journeys. It was very special to connect. In the morning, after she filled us up with a huge omelet, she offered to escort us on her bike to the food market and out of town.

Leaving Sisters for MacKenzie Pass!

Day 16: Blessed Rest, Connections and Big Hearts

Day 16: Rest Day in Bend with the Keane Family

"There is a drugged feeling to life during a rest day. Everything seems to pass by gently as you sit; your body melts into whatever furniture you are sitting on, coffee slides down as if you've never tasted anything so precious." -- Annie

Waking up in our backyard campsite at the Keane residence in Bend was a pretty excellent feeling. It was to be our first full rest day with the only challenges being to find the best coffee shop in Bend and to visit the used sporting goods store for new flip flops.

 It is a beautiful thing to just land, smack down, in the middle of some one's life. Taking a full rest day in Pete and Julie's world allowed us to really take in their lives versus having this tight little slice of social interaction over dinner. We got to see the reality of having two active middle school boys running around the house, and of operating a busy guiding business, Timberline Mountain Guides.

Throughout our time we got to hear snippets from Julie's fascinating work as an emergency room nurse. She has traveled to India many times as part of a cleft pallet repair work called Operation Smile. Julie is featured in this website about nurse volunteers: http://journeys4good.com/blog/volunteering/nurse-volunteers-there-is-always-a-need/. 

Digging farther back into her life we discovered that she went on a 2-month bike tour as 19-year old in Mexico and Peru, traveling into regions that had never seen a white person. Why do we travel? To hear stories like these.

We landed at Thump Coffee in Bend and stayed for four hours, reading and writing. There is a drugged feeling to life during a rest day. Everything seems to pass by so gently as you sit; your body just  melts into whatever furniture you are sitting on; coffee slides down as if you've never tasted anything so precious.

Todd and I occasionally lift our eyes to gaze at each other lazily and gratefully across the table. We get to talk to our kids without traffic noise and write emails that are longer than a few lines. Here is Todd, deeply ensconced in his rest day.

When we finally emerged from Thump the skies were dark and threatening. Thunder rumbled. "What?" We had not seen a rain cloud since we had arrived. So we raced back to the house and out tent that had been left unzipped. All was well.  Pete and his family were busy preparing for a big trip so I offered to cook a dinner from what was left in their fridge. What a hoot that was. While Pete and Julie sat at the kitchen table chatting with us and sipping Margaritas, Todd and I cooked up two huge plates of enchiladas. I loved how willing Julie was to completely give over her kitchen.

After sitting around a big table and eating a huge amount, Julie announced we were going to walk around the block. We all piled out of the house -- three boys and three adults -- all exclaiming at the beauty of the sky and mountains as the sun set through the dark, scattered clouds.

Most of the night the thunder rumbled and lightening flashed. It was not until midway through the next day that we were able to leave for Sisters.

Thank you Pete, Julie, Calvin, Finn and cousin Reuben!

Day 15 - 7/29: Unexpected Adventures

Day 13 - 7/29: Pilgrim Prairie to Bend

Our routines are established. There is ease to our days.

Routines of Bike Touring: It can take a while to relax into a routine when you are setting up camp or pulling into a new space every evening and then packing up every morning. At first you are packing and repacking your bags, looking for things you think you brought, pawing through junk you wish you hadn’t brought, trying to figure out where that  “safe place” you put that important item. And if you are new co-travelers you need to work out who does what when you get off your bikes. Because most days you are too tired to deliberate. You just need to get things done so you can fill your bellies and lie down. Todd sets up the tent while I get out the food stuffs; while it is cooking, I blow up my sleeping mat and make my pillow. We eat. Todd does dishes. We brush our teeth and sink into our tent with great sighs of joy!

This morning we woke to a very quiet and empty campsite... except Mary who was gathering her stuff up to head to California. I walked over to greet her and ask for a picture. I hope I am doing that when I am 78!

Actually, I hope that I am simply doing something. It does not need to be cycling necessarily. I just want to be engaged with the world, using my body, appreciating simple beauty and human kindness. Right now bike touring is the best way I know how to do that.

The campsite host came by to collect the fee. He did not have change for a $20 so I could only pay a portion. He didn’t seem to mind. We talked about the forest fires and how often people leave fires burning at their campsite. It is hard to believe given all the evidence of the devastation of the fires around the state. He reports these people to the state and they come home from their vacations to find a fine for $590. Yikes!

Speaking of camping: Comfort and a good night sleep is a good thing after 8 hours in the saddle. It’s important to bring what you need to feel good, but you can’t bring too much stuff. How much is enough? What did I bring for three weeks? Click here to find out!

This day was supposed to be a pretty light 40-mile jaunt to Bend, but it turned into quite an adventure. In this neck of the woods, called the Cascade Lakes Highway, it is traditional and expected to ride the length of it up behind Mt Bachelor to Bend -- a pretty wide road that goes through a corridor of trees with mountains all around. It is pretty. But given the number of roads just like that we had been on, we were set on doing something different. Lava Lands visitor center near Sunriver got our eye. We had been passing by old Lava flows for the last few days and were curious how they were formed and where they originated from -- a blast, a seam?

We headed along a lesser road to Route 97 and then to Lava Lands site where we listened to a ranger explain the phenomena, walked around the huge lava flows and toured the very interesting visitor center. It was great. In the process we learned that instead of heading into Bend via the busy and wide route 97, we could go 4 miles down a road behind the center to a “bike path” that went along the Deschutes all the way to Bend. Hot damn! we thought as we headed down. Little did we know we would be doing some pretty technical single track with our laden down touring bikes with slick tires! Ha ha.

It was beautiful beautiful along the Deschutes that started at a foot bridge.

Powerful, blue, clear water glided and tumbled beside the trail, over a few big waterfalls. The trail was sandy and took some real care. I wiped out a time or two, mountain bikers clambered to the side of the trail when they saw our wide loads coming down the trail, but we were happy to have such an unexpected adventure. Wow. Todd had to take a picture of me and my bike all covered with dust and dirt when we finally reached the paved road to Bend.

We had thought we’d arrive at Pete Keane’s house mid afternoon, but we rolled in around 5:30. I haven’t seen Pete since 1992. He and I dated back in college and introduced me to ice and rock climbing, a sport that changed me and my life for the better. After going through a tough spell in my life, his easy-going manner and exceedingly good nature made life fun again. Eventually we went on a 6-week climbing trip across the country when I was 19. He helped me get over what I call the “who me?” complex. It’s the idea that other people get to do cool and radical stuff like ice climb. Thanks Pete. It was so great to see him and his family and spend time getting to know his life. He is the owner and a guide at Timberline Mountain Guides in Bend.

We were greeted with hot showers, beers and burgers. It doesn’t get better than that. Their son Calvin had created a US forest service regulation tent site for us in the back yard, with leveled out gravel. It was fantastic. We both went to sleep feeling very full of joy and gratitude and looked forward to a wonderful rest day the next day.

Day 14: Cruising

“Being content is perhaps no less easy than playing the violin well: and requires no less practice.”
― Alain de Botton

Easy days are good to have.

Since we landed in Portland, we have climbed and descended many hills and mountains, navigated fog and hot weather. Today we had a different day; gradually climb for 13 miles and then cruise for 70, under high clouds and fair temperatures.

If I am in a certain mood I can really get into flat road riding. To just hunker down and pedal along can be a beautiful thing. The steady rhythm of my pedals turning around and around can send me into a semi-trance of lovely emptiness and quiet. I do it most often when Todd isn't his usual robust self and could use a break drafting behind me. Today Todd was experiencing what he called "healing pain" in his rib, versus the searing pain of a few days ago. I am happy to be the workhorse for a while.

Here we are after we climbed up to the height of the Cascades and prepared ourselves for a long and steady downhill:

We cruised along on a very straight, long road -- the kind you don't see in Vermont. It looks like an optical illusion, as if the road goes up and stops in mid-air. The scale here in Oregon is just incomprehensible to the New England brain. That spot in the horizon could be 5 miles or 20! It can be quite a head game to stare at it and wonder when you will get there. Best to get lost in some daydreams if that happens.

What do you think about when you ride your bike for 8 hours a day? Bike touring has many obvious benefits, so most people have a general idea of why people do it, but it does take the ability to be content with saying and doing nothing while riding your bike for hours at a time. Todd and I will often go for an hour at a time without speaking. What do we think about all day on our bikes? Well.. I find this a fascinating question I often ask cyclists. Some people are able to occupy their minds with elaborate problem-solving daydreams, plans and visions. Other people, like me, rarely get lost in thought but simply take note of everything that passes: "Oh, that's a nice tree." "That house needs a new roof." "I wonder what kind of flower that is." "Mmmmm.. more blackberries. We should stop and eat some soon." Too often my thoughts are a running commentary of how I am feeling: "My knee hurts a little. Maybe I should slow down." "I need a new pair of shorts. These are chafing." "Wow. That's some fire in my shoulders. Maybe I need to adjust my stem." On and on with that stuff can make you crazy. But ultimately, riding a bike for me is an 8 hour meditation on the present moment and looking with curiosity at the world as it passes by me and the world in me that arises as I come up against all the things a bike trip sends your way. On this trip I did come up with an elaborate plan of what my daughter should do for the next year! But.. that was the best I came up with.

Back to the trip. We came to route 97 and the town of Chumult, called the Siberia of Oregon to some. I went into this "Eat" diner to ask for water. When I asked the busy owner/waiter he hesitated so I said: "This is the cleanest restaurant I have ever seen," which was true and what was on my mind as I looked around. It made him smile and he came back with a pitcher of ice water. In the next moment, the older couple sitting at the counter who had been staring into their coffee cups, looked up and began to ask me questions. When I talked of all the beauty we had seen and the appreciation we held for Oregonian hospitality they just started beam and ask questions.

We carried on route 97, which we thought would be one of the worst sections of our trip. We imagined 20 miles of highway, no shade and big trucks. Nothing is ever as you expect on the road—the wide shoulders and tailwind made it very pleasant and soon we found ourselves in Crescent where we turned left onto the Cascades Lake Scenic Highway.

Scenic can mean that you ride along a long corridor of trees for a very long way. And this was the case here until we came across a huge burn from 2003. The damage was stunning, creating what looked like a wasteland of 21,000 acres.

Farther up, we came across a closed road due to active fires causing campers to flee, leaving their boats and gear. We continued on to find a nearly empty campsite, safe from the fires. At out campsite we met Mary, a 78 year old woman riding her bike from Montana to California for her 60th high school reunion. Wow. What an inspiration to witness her health and happiness. She said it would probably be one of her last long trips since she recently married for the 3rd time (she outlived the first two) and he enjoyed shorter trips.

Day 13: Blue, Deep Lake

Day 13: Crater Lake

“If you suddenly and unexpectedly feel joy, don’t hesitate. Give in to it. There are plenty of lives and whole towns destroyed or about to be. We are not wise, and not very often kind. And much can never be redeemed. Still life has some possibility left. Perhaps this is its way of fighting back, that sometimes something happened better than all the riches or power in the world. It could be anything, but very likely you notice it in the instant when love begins. Anyway, that’s often the case. Anyway, whatever it is, don’t be afraid of its plenty. Joy is not made to be a crumb. (Don't Hesitate)” 

― Mary Oliver, Swan: Poems and Prose Poems

Today is the day we get to ride without 50 pounds of gear! Our plan is to ride up to Crater Lake,  a 21-mile ride with 3,000 feet of gentle climbing.

We had another beautiful day of weather. Not a drop of rain yet. We started early to beat the heat and slowly made our way up the road. About 10 miles in we got to the Pumice Desert. From the Crater Lake Institute:

The Pumice Desert is a broad flat in the northern section of the park. This desert was covered with pumice and ash more than 200 feet deep in some places by the explosion of Mount Mazama. It has only started to be invaded by scattered lodgepole pines. Due to its scarcity of organic matter, few plants have taken hold to further enrich the soil.

Everyone we have talked to about Oregon told us we MUST see Crater Lake. So, our expectations were high. As we edged up to the rim, we were overwhelmed with the sight. Here are some views as we rode along:

It's a loooong way down!

Wizard Island

It was a lovely leisurely day that allowed us to just take in the beauty with no stress. We sat in the rocking chairs in front of the lodge and relaxed among all the tourists. Up there, in the face of that beauty, everyone had a different vibe. People drove more slowly. People smiled more. One of my favorite experiences was to stand at the first lookout and simple listen to people's reactions as they first saw the lake: "Ooooooh!" "Oh my goodness!" "Wow." What a great thing to witness.

When we got back to our campsite we discovered new residents -- a French couple who were traveling for a year on their recumbent bikes. They loved, loved, loved Oregon and had explored it North-South, East-West and everything in between. They would be traveling on to Latin America later in the year. The man was so ebullient, so full of joy and excitement for his adventures. Here is their blog: http://www.partirlespiedsdevant.com  (Click on the UK/American flag to translate!)

We took some nice hot showers, ate a great salad at the Diamond Lake Resort and slept well.