Day 1 of The Kerry Way: Killarney to Black Valley

I did not sleep well for all the excitement about finally heading out on to the trail. My mountain rescue background means I try to be prepared for all sorts of situations. I kept laughing out loud at myself as I lay awake in bed. You would think I am setting off into the wilderness for all my prep! (Visit here for my Hiking Tips for the Older Crowd)

The great thing about the Kerry Way for the aging hiker is that there is support all along the trail. If you develop an injury you can choose to stay in one of the many beautiful villages for the duration of your trip or take a bus or taxi to the next one. The Irish in the South West build a lot of their livelihoods around tourism so there is always someone willing to help for a fair price or just a good story or two.

I eat as much as I can in the morning with the typical Irish fare - yogurt, cereal, toast. No eggs offered at this B & B, but I've got plenty to sustain me. I am staying at the Black Valley Hostel tonight, so that means I make my own meal tonight. The hosts will do shopping for you and have it waiting if you tell them 48 hours in advance. 

Given the weather forecast of sun for ten days I choose to leave my sleeping back and solo tent behind to pick up when I return.  I like having the option to tent out under the stars but this will significantly decrease the load. I also leave my iPad behind, determined to unplug as much as I can while on route. I keep a paper journal instead. My host confesses she wishes she could come with me and looks forward to my stories on the other end of the trip. She seemed please to be part of my trip in this way and says, "I'll keep your stuff safe. Just come back safe yourself!"

Setting out at 9:15 seems fine despite having 12 miles ahead of me given how long the days are here. The sun does not set until 9:38 PM. My goal is to really take my time to go as S L O W L Y as I can, to rest, eat and bathe in streams along the way. My history with physical adventures is that the gifts of strength and endurance I inherited from some ancestors of mine can obscure the needs of my aging connective tissue! 

I do well by my promise to myself. It's not hard to stop a lot given the weather and landscape. This section is by far the most stunning hike I've been on -- just mile after mile of awe inspiring scenery, raucous bird song, massive trees, small lanes, stone stairs, boggy walks and mountain paths. It does not have the drama of the alps or other jagged mountain ranges. This land has soft edges and rich smells. 

The trail leaves Killarney by way of the Muckross House grounds and then crosses the main road to the Torc Waterfall, a popular tourist spot. I met a young German lad on my way out. He as weighed down by a HUGE pack with all sorts of gear hanging off of it. His face was already read from the heat and he looked worried.  His pack was 20kg. Mine is about 17kg. He said he was hiking to the Skellig Michael island ferry. And, he said, I am worried my pack is too heavy. Of course, I felt relieved I chose to off load so much of my gear.

After climbing hundreds of stone stairs and passing hundreds of tourists quite suddenly you rise up onto the uplands of the Killarney National Park. The route is called the Old Kenmare Road where you are greeted with expansive views of the McGillicuddy Reeks.  The sun was hot up there on this cast plateau and I was happy to have my Orvis sun hoody. It is a brilliant piece of clothing.  For those interested, I carried 2 liters of water plus a small 12 oz. bottle I secured to my belt for easy access.

After making my way across boggy lands on railroad ties I descended into dense and cool hardwood forests and mossy paths. Down further I descended into the Black Valley where a sign indicated left to go clockwise around the Kerry Way or right to go counter clockwise. Counter clockwise is traditional and I think the better way, especially if it is sunny. 

I took a break at Derrycunnihy Falls and floated on my back in a pool to cool off. Refreshed and ready I made my way to Lord Brandon's College -- a place where you can take boats back up to Killarney if you want at the end of your trip and where you can find food, treats and well water. 

The last few kilometers were sweet as I took in the valley leading up to the Gap of Dunloe and eventually the hostel ahead.

This hostel, like the other hostels on the trip was clean and cozy. My food items were waiting for me and I quickly whipped up a lovely chicken-potato-green bean-zucchini meal.  My young German friend Vadmer showed up, tired but happy and along with an American couple had a clunky but nice evening. I found that I wasn't mentally ready for socializing. I spent the entire day in glorious silence and felt a stillness in it that I have been craving. No worries! I will have that silence tomorrow.

Day 9: Parting Ways

 Feeling sad this morning to say goodbye to each other. It takes about a week to really begin to unwind, so a week feels short, but we did a great job relaxing into this amazing week. I am so grateful Andy joined me for this first week and now I am sad to see him go!

We had a nice breakfast in, took a walk and he was off to Shannon. I made final preparations and made the first 6 km walk down to my first stop - Muckross Riding Stables BnB. It’s a rough start - flat and paved. Hard on the body but it was gorgeous. My pack is feeling too heavy now that it has food in it but I am planning on leaving some stuff at the BnB for my return pick up. 

I got to the BnB took a quick shower and headed out with my small pack to explore Muckross estate, abbey and grounds. I am so glad I did. It was really lovely. After a great meal of 1/2 a chicken, potatoes and carrots I felt ready for my solo trek. 

For the next ten days I will not be posting anything. I have paper maps and will try to stay off my phone as much as possible. I will record some voice memos and take some photos and will post when I get back.

Thanks for joining me on this trip folks!

Day 9: Addendum to Parting Ways

After Andy left I finished typing up loose ends and then headed out into busy Killarney roadways. Immediately I thought, "Wow! This pack is heavy!" Turns out the "test-drive" I had given the pack a few days ago did not include food and was on rolling terrain. The first two days of this hike has spotty food sources so I had a lot of food and was walking on pavement. And it was hot. 

My plan this first day was a wise one: hike a short 6 km to to the B and B to try out the load, drop off the pack and then explore the Muckross House and gardens. 

I felt how different this adventure is from others. I am alone so no one to share the load of common items like first aid kit and emergency gear. I am 57 years old and carry a mental backdrop of apprehension about developing overuse injuries. I've had my share recently and had promised myself that I would be gentle and kind to my body on this trip. As I continued walking the 6 km along the busy tourist route with this huge pack it did not feel gentle or kind.

So I stopped at a park and unloaded into a trash bin a some precious items: an orange, vitamins, jar of peanut butter, honey and other sundries. I admit to have been pretty anxious and simply (and maybe just a bit rashly) jettisoning this "stuff." I chuckled to myself as I walked away a bit lighter. I used to invite discomfort! Now I am older and wiser. 

On the way from the Muckross Riding Stables B & B to Muckross, I saw a decent restaurant. This is good news, because without a car "going out" to dinner can be tricky. 

The day is gorgeous and sunny and so are the ground of Muckross House. The busyness of Killarney feels very far away as I walk under huge trees and along Lough Leane. People are exploring this lush oasis by jaunting cart, bike and two feet, like me. 

It was easy to lose track of time and distance as I wound my way around the paths and the big house and gardens. This is the joy of traveling alone, just following your nose. 

I ended the day by eating a 1/2 chicken and pint of Guiness at Colgans Gastro Pub to set me up well for my first big day tomorrow!

Day 8: Oh Killarney!

 Even with the massive traffic jams and crowds, Killarney is a wonderful place to celebrate the end of a great week together. But before we could get to the famous Murphy’s pub Andy needed to catch some fish and I needed to finalize my itinerary. We were both successful! Andy got a tastes of the coveted trout waters even if he had to struggle with old school pvc waders and wet flies only. It was enough, he said, to be out on the water again after a year and a half recuperation from a torn Achilles. 

I enjoyed my time getting everything sorted and was able to get a solid plan.

After Andy got back we celebrated his catch by going out on the town. St Mary’s Cathedral was a highlight as was the grounds around Ross Castle for the HUGE trees. We ended our time with a great meal of Sea Trout and Stuffed Pork!

Day 7: Leaving the Beara and Testing out my Set up

 Going to bed after our full day in Allihies, it felt incomprehensible that we our week together was coming to a close. But, indeed, it was time to head North to Killarney for the final two days of our trip. 

As I started to pack I realized that the Beara Way hiking loop goes from Allihies and over to Eyeres on the North West side of the penninsula. I could pack up my rucksack and hike over while Andy fishes a little stream we found and then meets me in Eyeres. This plan turned out to be a fabulous success for both of us.

Andy dropped off at the far end of Allihies.

The route weaved its way through the Copper mines we had hiked by the day previous and then up and over the mountains. The sun was out again and the views were glorious. Sheep greeted me at every turn and all the gear worked well. Getting the right boots is no small thing so I was very happy they passed muster.

I was a late meeting Andy but when I got there he was smiling and ready to tell me about the little Brown Trouts he caught in the small mountain stream. I wish I had the photo he took to show you. Here is a representation:

From there we headed to the wildly busy Kenmare before heading up Molls Gap, The Black Valley and the Gap of Dunloe. This ride is the most breathtakingly beautiful route I’ve ever been on. Last time Todd and I had our bikes and were shaking our heads at how crazy it would be to drive through these narrow passes, but here I was behind the driver’s seat. There was no way I was letting Andy leave Ireland without having front row seat to all that beauty. I will mix some internet images in with the few we took.  Moll’s Gap:

Todd has a great photo of the Black Valley and all I have to share is that high speed video! It is a magical place. I will get the photo from Todd.

We  stopped at the top of the Gap of Dunloe and hiked most of the way up Purple Mountain in order to get a proper look and then we descended the impossibly narrow and twisty road down to the outskirts of Killarney.

If you really want to know what the drive was like…

Killarney is a shocker after being out where we were. We sat in traffic for a good while before inching our way to our apartment. We still had enough time to get to a store and cook a nice meal!

Tomorrow is a fishing day for Andy and I decided to get myself sorted out better for my trip. I still had a bunch of questions about my route and where I was going to stay. 

Day 6: Sunburn in Ireland?

 Yes. Sunburn.

When we woke up here in Allihies, in one of my favorite places on earth, the sun was shining. It was sunny last time I was here with Todd. What a beautiful place. If you come to Ireland make sure you visit. Everyone talks about going to the Kerry Penninsula, but the Beara has a more remote feel and is quieter.

Today we decided to milk the day and set off at 8:30 after a huge Irish Breakfast from our BnB host Irene. (Beachview BnB) We did a shore and mountain loop that included a few copper mine ruins and then spend 2 hrs at the beach swimming and searching for rocks. We laid down in the hot sand next to a freshwater stream that poured into the ocean, resting our bodies from the morning hike. Then we jumped in! Wow. It was cold! But as is typical, the Irish were swimming in it as if it was a pool — hardy people.

After that we decided to go for another hike and drove out to the Dursey Island area. We knew we had to take advantage of the sun! It turned out to be one of the most fantastic hikes I’ve ever been on. We ended the day with more fine food and Guinness from O’Neill’s Pub. 

Day 5: Gravestone Hunting and Pint Swilling

We left Kinvarra this morning and I noticed how my mind is slowly starting to unwind. For those who haven’t read from the start, the Burren is what originally called me to make this trip. I was listening to Krista Tippets interview with the late John O’Donahue called The Inner Landscape of Beauty and was reminded of the power the “outer” landscape can have on our interior. John grew up in the Connemara area. Krista asks, “Tell me a little bit more about where you come from and what formed you. What began to form you to come to this spiritual perspective and philosophical and poetic perspective that you have now?” John responds: 

Well, I suppose I was blessed by being born into an amazing landscape in the west of Ireland. And it’s the Burren region, which is limestone. And it’s a bare limestone landscape. And I often think that the forms of the limestone are so abstract and aesthetic, and it is as if they were all laid down by some wild, surrealistic kind of deity. So soon, being a child and coming out into that, it was waiting, like a huge, wild invitation to extend your imagination. And then it’s right on the edge of the ocean, as well, so the conversation — an ancient conversation between the ocean and the stone is going on.

For me, many parts of Ireland are “like a huge, wild invitation to extend your imagination.”  Tonight we will sleep in on of those parts — the Beara Penninsula. But before we do we must go to Limerick to try and find our great-great-great grandfather Garret O'Shaughnessy's gravestone.

Limerick has a reputation for being a rough town. In fact, it’s nickname is “Stab City”. They’ve done a lot to move beyond that reputation but we were still feeling a bit wary as we headed to a rough part of the city where St. Michael’s Church sits. Years ago my mom and dad found the gravestone before they knew we were direct descendants of Garret O’Shaughnessy. The notes she gave us said to go down the narrow lane to the right of the car park. Sadly, the lane was blocked by new row houses. We walked around to the church yard on the other side, but the graveyard had been paved over for use as a locked private parking lot! Undeterred I climbed over the fence to look behind the church. No luck. 

So off we went to the Limerick Cemetery to just have a look for O’Shaughnessy gravestones amidst the 1,000s there and in case Garret’s grave was moved there. While it may seem a bit morbid to some, exploring graveyards is one of my favorite memories from my childhood. Reading gravestone inscriptions is like peeking into someone’s life. At our house in New Hampshire there was a graveyard with birthdates from the 1800s. In Limerick, there were gravestones we could read from 1700s! Some were heartbreaking. One showed a women lost 7 babies at birth in her lifetime. In the 1800s infant mortality rate was 40%! 

We did not find Garret but we did find a couple other O’Shaughnessys, including one written in Irish from the 1700s that was behind an Iron grave marker from the 1800s. Andy brought supplies to do some grave stone rubbings. 

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The day was marching on and we still had a three-hour trip down to Beara. But first! We can’t forget to take Andy to meet Thomas O’Shaughnessy, proprietor of the O’Shaughnessy Pub in Glin. Our Uncle Kenny first visited this pub in the 70s when he was doing family research. He collected a lot of great information from Captain John (Thomas’ father) and thought there might be a slim family connection. The O’Shaughnessy’s of Glin have no problem knowing their heritage. Thomas is the 6th generation to run the pub and descend from Sir Dermott O’Shaughnessy who was knighted by King Henry VIII.  More important that the impressive pedigree of this pub is it’s owner, Thomas. So far my sister Susie, my Mom and Dad, my husband and me, and now Andy and me have sat and shared a pint with him. What a kind man and great story teller. Here’s dad and then Andy and a few more!

Turns out Thomas and Andy had a love of portable saw mills in common!

Off we went for our final destination — Allihies. It is a twisty turn drive — challenging on any day, but today was drizzly and Andy handled the roads like a rally car racer. I did tell him to slow down a click for a bit so I could rest my breaking foot (as a passenger.). We got there in time for an amazing meal at O’Neills pub and some Sunday evening Irish music. Get ready for a wacky video. Wow. What a day!