Day 1 of The Kerry Way: Killarney to Black Valley

I did not sleep well for all the excitement about finally heading out on to the trail. My mountain rescue background means I try to be prepared for all sorts of situations. I kept laughing out loud at myself as I lay awake in bed. You would think I am setting off into the wilderness for all my prep! (Visit here for my Hiking Tips for the Older Crowd)

The great thing about the Kerry Way for the aging hiker is that there is support all along the trail. If you develop an injury you can choose to stay in one of the many beautiful villages for the duration of your trip or take a bus or taxi to the next one. The Irish in the South West build a lot of their livelihoods around tourism so there is always someone willing to help for a fair price or just a good story or two.

I eat as much as I can in the morning with the typical Irish fare - yogurt, cereal, toast. No eggs offered at this B & B, but I've got plenty to sustain me. I am staying at the Black Valley Hostel tonight, so that means I make my own meal tonight. The hosts will do shopping for you and have it waiting if you tell them 48 hours in advance. 

Given the weather forecast of sun for ten days I choose to leave my sleeping back and solo tent behind to pick up when I return.  I like having the option to tent out under the stars but this will significantly decrease the load. I also leave my iPad behind, determined to unplug as much as I can while on route. I keep a paper journal instead. My host confesses she wishes she could come with me and looks forward to my stories on the other end of the trip. She seemed please to be part of my trip in this way and says, "I'll keep your stuff safe. Just come back safe yourself!"

Setting out at 9:15 seems fine despite having 12 miles ahead of me given how long the days are here. The sun does not set until 9:38 PM. My goal is to really take my time to go as S L O W L Y as I can, to rest, eat and bathe in streams along the way. My history with physical adventures is that the gifts of strength and endurance I inherited from some ancestors of mine can obscure the needs of my aging connective tissue! 

I do well by my promise to myself. It's not hard to stop a lot given the weather and landscape. This section is by far the most stunning hike I've been on -- just mile after mile of awe inspiring scenery, raucous bird song, massive trees, small lanes, stone stairs, boggy walks and mountain paths. It does not have the drama of the alps or other jagged mountain ranges. This land has soft edges and rich smells. 

The trail leaves Killarney by way of the Muckross House grounds and then crosses the main road to the Torc Waterfall, a popular tourist spot. I met a young German lad on my way out. He as weighed down by a HUGE pack with all sorts of gear hanging off of it. His face was already read from the heat and he looked worried.  His pack was 20kg. Mine is about 17kg. He said he was hiking to the Skellig Michael island ferry. And, he said, I am worried my pack is too heavy. Of course, I felt relieved I chose to off load so much of my gear.

After climbing hundreds of stone stairs and passing hundreds of tourists quite suddenly you rise up onto the uplands of the Killarney National Park. The route is called the Old Kenmare Road where you are greeted with expansive views of the McGillicuddy Reeks.  The sun was hot up there on this cast plateau and I was happy to have my Orvis sun hoody. It is a brilliant piece of clothing.  For those interested, I carried 2 liters of water plus a small 12 oz. bottle I secured to my belt for easy access.

After making my way across boggy lands on railroad ties I descended into dense and cool hardwood forests and mossy paths. Down further I descended into the Black Valley where a sign indicated left to go clockwise around the Kerry Way or right to go counter clockwise. Counter clockwise is traditional and I think the better way, especially if it is sunny. 

I took a break at Derrycunnihy Falls and floated on my back in a pool to cool off. Refreshed and ready I made my way to Lord Brandon's College -- a place where you can take boats back up to Killarney if you want at the end of your trip and where you can find food, treats and well water. 

The last few kilometers were sweet as I took in the valley leading up to the Gap of Dunloe and eventually the hostel ahead.

This hostel, like the other hostels on the trip was clean and cozy. My food items were waiting for me and I quickly whipped up a lovely chicken-potato-green bean-zucchini meal.  My young German friend Vadmer showed up, tired but happy and along with an American couple had a clunky but nice evening. I found that I wasn't mentally ready for socializing. I spent the entire day in glorious silence and felt a stillness in it that I have been craving. No worries! I will have that silence tomorrow.

Day 9: Addendum to Parting Ways

After Andy left I finished typing up loose ends and then headed out into busy Killarney roadways. Immediately I thought, "Wow! This pack is heavy!" Turns out the "test-drive" I had given the pack a few days ago did not include food and was on rolling terrain. The first two days of this hike has spotty food sources so I had a lot of food and was walking on pavement. And it was hot. 

My plan this first day was a wise one: hike a short 6 km to to the B and B to try out the load, drop off the pack and then explore the Muckross House and gardens. 

I felt how different this adventure is from others. I am alone so no one to share the load of common items like first aid kit and emergency gear. I am 57 years old and carry a mental backdrop of apprehension about developing overuse injuries. I've had my share recently and had promised myself that I would be gentle and kind to my body on this trip. As I continued walking the 6 km along the busy tourist route with this huge pack it did not feel gentle or kind.

So I stopped at a park and unloaded into a trash bin a some precious items: an orange, vitamins, jar of peanut butter, honey and other sundries. I admit to have been pretty anxious and simply (and maybe just a bit rashly) jettisoning this "stuff." I chuckled to myself as I walked away a bit lighter. I used to invite discomfort! Now I am older and wiser. 

On the way from the Muckross Riding Stables B & B to Muckross, I saw a decent restaurant. This is good news, because without a car "going out" to dinner can be tricky. 

The day is gorgeous and sunny and so are the ground of Muckross House. The busyness of Killarney feels very far away as I walk under huge trees and along Lough Leane. People are exploring this lush oasis by jaunting cart, bike and two feet, like me. 

It was easy to lose track of time and distance as I wound my way around the paths and the big house and gardens. This is the joy of traveling alone, just following your nose. 

I ended the day by eating a 1/2 chicken and pint of Guiness at Colgans Gastro Pub to set me up well for my first big day tomorrow!

Almost ready to leave!

 A few more days and I will flying above the Atlantic Ocean on the way to Ireland. What a gift to leave my every day life and step into a very different one for three weeks. It's been a wild few years for this planet and for us humans walking around on it. 

When things are really challenging I have an image I bring to mind that always helps: I imagine the view of Earth from space as it hurtles along through the blackness. I see myself, outsized, standing on it as it spins — my feet held by gravity and my arms up in the air waving wildly. I am smiling and wide-eyed.There are many others' too, screaming and laughing the way we do on carnival rides — half terrified and half exhilarated. In a real sense, that is what life often feels like and for some reason seeing this view from space allows me to relax into it. 

So then what a gift it is when I can go away and slow it all down. Even as I prepare these past few days, I can feel myself beginning to unwind the coil, loosen the spring, open the breath and the belly.

I will be traveling the first week with my brother Andy O'Shaughnessy who has never been to the green Isle. I look forward to seeing his face as he looks out over those rolling Limerick hills where our ancestors lives and survived. What a miracle that is! That our ancestors survived Cromwell's invasions, Viking marauding, the famine, the trip across the "pond" and the harsh conditions waiting for the "black" Irish. Mother's day always brings to mind the mother's before me doing whatever was needed to feed the children. 

We will spend our week together in Doolin, Aran Islands, Kinvara, Beara Penninsula and Killarney. We will walk and fish and take in the ancient rings of stone and beautiful, endless rock walls.

In Killarney, I will begin my two-week walk of the Kerry Way on my own.  This is a 140+ mile walk around the Diveragh Peninsula.  I have paper maps and plan to only use my phone to coordinate accommodations and check weather. The loop has a little of everything: mountain passes, village roads, seaside trails and ancient sites. I have the first three days planned out and then I will just see what comes my way. 

I do not plan to post along the way, but that could change. Here are some of the highlights I hope to encounter in the first four days:

Day 1: A bit of sightseeing before I hike through Killarney National Park with a stop at Muckross House and a stay at the Muckross Riding Stables

Day 2: My walkabout officially begins with a 14 mile hike to Black Valley Hostel

Day 3: After about 11 miles, I end my day in Glencar at the Loch Acoose house.

Day 4:  I've decided to try and do a significant side hiking trip over the tallest mountains in Ireland: Carrauntoohil and Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop and will stay another night at Lock Acoose.

Day 5:  An 11 mile walk to Glenbeigh.

Day 6: A big day to  Cahersiveen. 17 miles (we'll see! I have a tent and might end up camping along the way. If I make it, I will sleep at the Sive Hostel.

That's the basic gist! I might do some writing while on route, but will just wait to see what my soul needs!