Day 1 of The Kerry Way: Killarney to Black Valley

I did not sleep well for all the excitement about finally heading out on to the trail. My mountain rescue background means I try to be prepared for all sorts of situations. I kept laughing out loud at myself as I lay awake in bed. You would think I am setting off into the wilderness for all my prep! (Visit here for my Hiking Tips for the Older Crowd)

The great thing about the Kerry Way for the aging hiker is that there is support all along the trail. If you develop an injury you can choose to stay in one of the many beautiful villages for the duration of your trip or take a bus or taxi to the next one. The Irish in the South West build a lot of their livelihoods around tourism so there is always someone willing to help for a fair price or just a good story or two.

I eat as much as I can in the morning with the typical Irish fare - yogurt, cereal, toast. No eggs offered at this B & B, but I've got plenty to sustain me. I am staying at the Black Valley Hostel tonight, so that means I make my own meal tonight. The hosts will do shopping for you and have it waiting if you tell them 48 hours in advance. 

Given the weather forecast of sun for ten days I choose to leave my sleeping back and solo tent behind to pick up when I return.  I like having the option to tent out under the stars but this will significantly decrease the load. I also leave my iPad behind, determined to unplug as much as I can while on route. I keep a paper journal instead. My host confesses she wishes she could come with me and looks forward to my stories on the other end of the trip. She seemed please to be part of my trip in this way and says, "I'll keep your stuff safe. Just come back safe yourself!"

Setting out at 9:15 seems fine despite having 12 miles ahead of me given how long the days are here. The sun does not set until 9:38 PM. My goal is to really take my time to go as S L O W L Y as I can, to rest, eat and bathe in streams along the way. My history with physical adventures is that the gifts of strength and endurance I inherited from some ancestors of mine can obscure the needs of my aging connective tissue! 

I do well by my promise to myself. It's not hard to stop a lot given the weather and landscape. This section is by far the most stunning hike I've been on -- just mile after mile of awe inspiring scenery, raucous bird song, massive trees, small lanes, stone stairs, boggy walks and mountain paths. It does not have the drama of the alps or other jagged mountain ranges. This land has soft edges and rich smells. 

The trail leaves Killarney by way of the Muckross House grounds and then crosses the main road to the Torc Waterfall, a popular tourist spot. I met a young German lad on my way out. He as weighed down by a HUGE pack with all sorts of gear hanging off of it. His face was already read from the heat and he looked worried.  His pack was 20kg. Mine is about 17kg. He said he was hiking to the Skellig Michael island ferry. And, he said, I am worried my pack is too heavy. Of course, I felt relieved I chose to off load so much of my gear.

After climbing hundreds of stone stairs and passing hundreds of tourists quite suddenly you rise up onto the uplands of the Killarney National Park. The route is called the Old Kenmare Road where you are greeted with expansive views of the McGillicuddy Reeks.  The sun was hot up there on this cast plateau and I was happy to have my Orvis sun hoody. It is a brilliant piece of clothing.  For those interested, I carried 2 liters of water plus a small 12 oz. bottle I secured to my belt for easy access.

After making my way across boggy lands on railroad ties I descended into dense and cool hardwood forests and mossy paths. Down further I descended into the Black Valley where a sign indicated left to go clockwise around the Kerry Way or right to go counter clockwise. Counter clockwise is traditional and I think the better way, especially if it is sunny. 

I took a break at Derrycunnihy Falls and floated on my back in a pool to cool off. Refreshed and ready I made my way to Lord Brandon's College -- a place where you can take boats back up to Killarney if you want at the end of your trip and where you can find food, treats and well water. 

The last few kilometers were sweet as I took in the valley leading up to the Gap of Dunloe and eventually the hostel ahead.

This hostel, like the other hostels on the trip was clean and cozy. My food items were waiting for me and I quickly whipped up a lovely chicken-potato-green bean-zucchini meal.  My young German friend Vadmer showed up, tired but happy and along with an American couple had a clunky but nice evening. I found that I wasn't mentally ready for socializing. I spent the entire day in glorious silence and felt a stillness in it that I have been craving. No worries! I will have that silence tomorrow.